Inter-railing? With a Wheelchair? You have to be crazy! The UK
- Angharad Candlin
- Aug 5
- 17 min read
London and the UK
First things first - navigating the considerable public transport system or, as I like to say; the boring but essential information for a successful trip to London
I used to live in London so I know it well, I’ve also been in and out of London as wheelchair user a gazillion times. The first thing you need to know is that London is one of the most accessible cities in the world. Every piece of public transport including the black cabs are all accessible in one way shape or form.
If you fly into Heathrow, Black Cabs are at the taxi rank so you don’t need to book anything in advance, unless you have a specific need, in which case there are multiple services available. If you don’t have a huge amount of luggage there are also several public transport options, all of which are accessible, considerably cheaper than taxis and go directly into central London.
When I’m in the UK, I inevitably need a car for part of my trip so that I can easily visit friends and relatives in more rural locations. For my last three trips to the UK I have used
Specialist Vehicle Rental who have been fabulous every time and are cheaper than the other companies I have investigated. They deliver and pick up the car across the UK.
On one of my trips they met me in the car park at Heathrow which was seamless. I usually organise for them to pick up the car from Heathrow when I fly out which means I don’t need to go to the additional expense and hassle of organising a wheelchair accessible taxi to take me to the airport. On this trip I organised a wheelchair accessible taxi from the airport as I was travelling to a relative’s house, not into central London. I hired a car halfway through my three month trip and handed it over at the airport prior to checking in.
Absolutely essential is the TFL (Transport for London) Go App. Not every station or tube line is accessible so once you’ve downloaded the app, in the top right hand corner is a wheelchair icon - switch it on. Once the accessible version is on, you will see that a considerable amount of the stations disappear. That’s because they’re not accessible. Remember we’re working with a system built in the Victorian era so as much as Transport for London have tried, there are some things that are just not possible or are further down the priority list. Also be careful to note whether the wheelchair circle is simply outlined in blue or completely blue. The completely blue icons are accessible (step free) from the street to the train. The outlined blue icons are generally accessible (step free) from the street to the platform, not the train.
If the station I’m heading to isn’t listed in step free mode, I tend to switch off step free and note which stations are near the one I need, then switch step free back on and see which of the nearby stations are step free. You may also find that it’s quicker to roll/walk between locations or catch the bus, than to bother with the tube.
The new Elizabeth line (purple) is completely accessible and stretches way outside of London to the west at Reading all the way to Abbey Wood in the east. The circle (yellow) and central (red) lines are not accessible. Some stations on other lines have been retrofitted by raising part of the platform. All of the stations that have partially raised platforms coincide so it doesn’t matter which station you get on, as long as you’re getting off at an accessible station, you will be able to disembark if you stay in that carriage. Be prepared to roll through a rabbit warren to get to the lifts but they are all very clearly marked. In the underground there is an unofficial system which keeps everything moving; walk/roll on the right, if you don’t, you may receive a brusque “get out of the way” or “stick to the right”.
All London stations/tubes etc are staffed by an army of Assistance Staff. They are worth their weight in gold and I have never met a grumpy one. They go out of their way to help anyone with any kind of disability. On numerous occasions I’ve had one appear out of nowhere to me to ask if I need any help. There is always a staff member at the ticket barriers who will help you through the accessible gate and organise for one of their assistance colleagues to come and help you. If by chance, you are missed, look for the staff in the purple vests, they are the assistance staff.
All buses in London are accessible and free for wheelchair users. London buses have front and middle sets of doors. The middle set of doors is for disembarking only unless you use a wheelchair. Next to the middle doors on the outside of the bus is a button with a wheelchair icon. Pressing the button, prompts the driver to deploy the (automatic) ramp. Don’t stress if the doors close before this happens, the bus won’t leave without you; the doors have to be closed for the ramp to be deployed. In the designated wheelchair spot there is a separate button to notify the driver you need to disembark at the next stop. Be prepared, when you press it, you could be forgiven for thinking you’re back in WWII and the air raid warning has just gone off. Again, if the doors close after passengers have got off, don’t stress, they need to be closed to deploy the ramp and the doors will open again for you.
One important thing to be aware of with all buses in the UK. They can only take one wheelchair at a time so if you happen to be number two, or there’s already someone on the bus in a wheelchair you will need to wait for another one. Parents with prams/strollers/pushchairs often leave them open in the wheelchair space, feel free to ask them to close and move it which is what they are supposed to do in the first place. In my experience though, the bus driver had the awkward conversations with my fellow passengers which I have been thankful for.
The iconic London black cabs are all accessible and have manual ramps. I discovered why when I visited the Riverside Transport Museum in Glasgow. We can thank what used to be called the EEC, now simply the EU (European Union) who made the ruling that the whole of Europe had to have transport that was accessible to wheelchair users. Not to get into politics with the whole Brexit debate, but it is the EU that puts the pressure on countries to comply with various rulings which make things safer for citizens. I truly hope that the UK won’t drop standards now they’re not part of the EU.
If you’re so inclined to visit the Riverside Museum, I felt it was the best transport museum I’ve ever been to, not least because Ewan McGregor’s motorbike from Long Way Down is exhibited there. As we were wandering around the museum I suggested to my companion that there should be a wheelchair exhibit, we turned a corner and low and behold there was a wheelchair exhibit. This is where I learned about accessibility and the EU. There was a very interesting video interview with the owner/driver of the very first accessible black cab, rudimentary as it was, talking about it.
The museum is accessible, however when I visited there were some very attractive and bulky baby change tables taking up space in both accessible toilets. I let the staff know that this is completely unacceptable and given they have a staff member who uses a wheelchair, they should have known better. They asked me to put my complaint in writing because if it’s in writing the management is obliged to fix it. True to their word, I received an email 24 hours later to say it had been rectified and baby change tables would not be allowed in the accessible toilets. They also have a changing places room, but when I was there the door was stuck and I couldn’t find anyone at that precise moment to open it for me.
London also has uber boats which are public transport ferries to take passengers up and down the Thames. Like all ferries there is a ramp to get on and off. Some are easier than others but I managed all of them without assistance. That may be something to do with my living in Sydney so I take ferries regularly and am practised in boarding and disembarking. There is no designated wheelchair spot on the ferries and they can get busy. I tended to just park myself at the front and everyone was pretty relaxed stepping around me. The ferries are more expensive than other modes of public transport but if you chat to the staff member, they will provide a free companion ticket which isn’t available if you purchase the tickets in advance on the website.
London also has various other modes of mass transport which are different versions of overground rail eg the DLR and Thames Link. There is even a public cable car near the Millenium Dome. These are shown on the TfL app in the same way as the tube lines and stations.
Yes the cable car is accessible and yes I did go on it. There was a massive queue the evening I used it and we were a bit confused whether it was for an event or the actual line. Everyone appeared to be going up the stairs so I nipped up to the front of the queue before the stairs, to ask the staff member if there was a separate accessible entrance. He opened the barrier, we slipped through to the lift and ended up in front of everyone else. The cable car is paused to give you time to get on and off and the view from the cars is fabulous. The sun was setting when we used it and it really was breathtaking. Be warned though, if you don’t like heights or get nervous if the cars swing in the breeze, it’s probably not for you.
In terms of planning your visit to the UK, I think the best website to take a look at is Visit Britain. This link takes you directly to the Accessibility section of the site. It is incredibly thorough and has links to all of the other helpful sites you might otherwise search for, all in the one spot.
Given everyone has completely different ideas of what makes a good holiday, I’m not going to suggest places to go, you can check out things you are specifically interested in at the Visit Britain website.
The following websites are very helpful in finding accessible holiday accommodation in the UK. Hopefully there will be something that meets everyone’s needs. New accessible places are always popping up so it’s definitely worth checking back regularly.
Visit England Has a whole section of the website specialising in accessible holidays with a plethora of information about tours, accommodation and things to do. It’s definitely worth taking a look.
If you’re going to get a train in the UK and need a ramp or other assistance, you need to book it using the Passenger Assistance website. There is an app but it won’t work for people who are using travel sim cards. The website is just as easy to use and vital for all train travel in the UK. The individual rail companies also offer passenger assistance but I have found the responses from them very patchy so don’t use them. The official passenger assistance website and app is most efficient and covers all of the different privatised train companies.
The UK has had a very confusing and unreliable system of privatised train companies and services for the last few decades, so much so that three years ago, I wouldn’t have even contemplated catching a train on some routes (such as the main London to Glasgow/Edinburgh lines). Since the Labour government won the election in 2024, they have prioritised nationalising the railway services once again. As each company’s contract comes to an end they are added to National Rail. I’m hoping that this will bring an end to the total disaster that catching a train in the UK had become and bring down the eye wateringly expensive ticket prices. As a note of reassurance, I caught many trains whilst I was in the UK and I only had one problem when some bright spark decided to jump the fence and go for a wander along the track between Blackfriars and London Bridge stations. Can you hear my eyes roll?
I grew up in the north-western city of Lancaster, known as the “Gateway to the Lakes”. It’s an easy hour’s drive up the M6 to get to the southern lakes. As a visitor with limited time would I stay in Lancaster? No. It’s a university town and whilst there are some interesting aspects, there are an abundance of villages near Lancaster that are very pretty and would give visitors a much more pleasant experience of the north west. I would definitely recommend a day trip into Lancaster to visit Lancaster Castle, which was an active prison until very recently and has a wealth of history, including its link to the Pendle Witches and some very high profile modern day trials.
Everyone who grows up or lives in Lancaster knows the history of the Pendle Witches and the Lancashire witch trials. The Castle unfortunately isn’t very accessible but given it was a working prison whilst I was growing up, I was keen to do the tour now that it had been closed and refurbished. As I mentioned in an earlier post, I am ambulant but I knew the tour was going to be difficult. I spent about a year working with my physiotherapist to make sure I could do it, in particular making sure I could go up and down stairs safely with my walking stick. There are lots of steps but the tour guide was wonderful. He took things slowly and there was somewhere for me to sit in each part of the castle; from the dungeons to the court room and judges rooms upstairs. Even if you can’t make it around the castle itself, the cafe in the courtyard is probably one of the nicest in Lancaster.
My second recommendation for Lancaster is Williamson Park. It was my playground growing up and holds about 53 hectares of stunning woods, paths, hidden shelters and children’s play areas. I have traversed almost all of the park in my wheelchair. There are definitely some tricky paths and one or two sets of “rustic” steps but they are easy to avoid. The park provides stunning views across Morecambe Bay to the Lake District beyond which are easily visible on a fine day.
The Lake District is where my heart lies. As a child and young person (prior to my disability) I spent many weekends with family and friends exploring different walking trails. You will need a car to really get a feel for the area. Kendal, Ambleside and Windermere are the most well known towns but be warned, in the summer holidays and on long weekends they can get packed! It’s always better to go in the shoulder or low season to have a less stressful experience.
My advice is to explore beyond Lake Windermere to Coniston, Rydal Water or Tarn Hows. Tarn Hows has a stunning accessible walk around the Lake and some rugged wheelchairs/scooters are available for hire if you’re concerned your own won’t make it. Be aware, the Lake District is pretty much the wettest place in the country and even in the summer it can be cold and the weather can turn in a moment. Make sure you’re prepared, and to quote Billy Connolly, “there’s no such thing as bad weather, just bad clothing”.
If you’re going to visit Lancaster, then a visit to York on the east coast of the country really should be on your list. The Wars of the Roses is an important piece of British history where the houses of Lancaster (symbolised by a red rose) and York (the white rose) fought for control of the Crown. York is a beautiful and, like Lancaster, quite compact. In Lancaster, the Priory Cathedral sits right next to the Castle and York is home to York Minster located in the centre of the city. Of all the cathedrals I have visited over my time, believe me it would number in the hundreds, I think York Minster is my favourite.
My visit to the Minster almost had me in tears. At the front of the cathedral, up some steps, are the choir stalls and the altar. Except… two days before my visit, master tradesmen and women had finished installing the most beautiful marble ramp. People in wheelchairs are finally able to independently reach the choir stalls. There were two tradespeople there, doing a final polish of the floor and surrounds when I arrived so I asked if it was ok to wheel all over their work. They were absolutely delighted to see the impact of this job. I was the first person that day to use the ramp and one of a handful of people who had used it since the Friday when it was finished. I thanked them from the bottom of my heart. Their response was so typical of everyone in the UK and Europe when I mentioned accessibility, words to the effect of, “it’s important that everyone has equal access” with a slight shrug of the shoulders, implying it’s just the way it should be. Oh how I wish decision-makers and planners in Australia would see it that way.
The marble ramp looks like it has always been there, it takes nothing from the beauty of the building and actually, I think it adds to the meaning of the building. It says loud and clear, “everyone is welcome here” and after all, isn’t that what a Cathedral is all about? I can’t talk about York Minster without talking about the Chapter House. Do not leave the Minster without visiting it. The architecture is staggering, the decorative walls and ceiling are absolutely beautiful and the acoustics are awe-inspiring. When we visited, there were only two people in the room with us, so given I sing, I rolled to the very centre and sang in almost a whisper, Amazing Grace (it was the only song I could remember in the moment - but probably very apt). Despite the quietness of my voice, the notes hung in the air like crystal. My friend who I was staying with in York tells me at Christmas the Minster is decorated and the choir sings carols in the Chapter House. If you want to go, tickets disappear like hot cakes so get in early!
York is home to Jorvik Viking Centre, it opened when I was at high school and for years there were visitor queues around the block. I’ve wanted to go ever since then but have never organised myself well enough to get there. One of the things I was curious about was that they only allow one person in a wheelchair at a time, so you have to book in advance. I couldn’t work out why until my visit. The centre is unique; visitors are transported around the museum in pods attached to a track on the ceiling. They have one pod that is wheelchair accessible. It was ingenious. I rolled onto a platform and then onto the special accessible pod. Basically the front row of seats had been removed so that people in wheelchairs stay in their own chairs and their companions sit in the row behind as they “float” around the exhibit.
Finally a trip to York wouldn’t be complete without a visit to Bettys. I need say nothing except you can’t book a table, you just have to wait in the queue outside. There will be a queue, there is always a queue but believe me it’s worth it. The staff will bring a ramp for you to get through the door. If you are ambulant I suggest you ask them if you can “park” your chair - they will show you a space near the kitchen out of the way - and walk to your table. The tea room isn’t large and whilst the staff are totally fine and welcoming of people in wheelchairs, I always think it just makes it easier on the waitstaff if there’s one less wheelchair to get in their way.
Whilst you’re in the North East of England there are a few other places I would recommend you visit, although you will need a car. They all prioritise accessibility and their websites have specific accessibility information, please peruse the sites in advance so that you can be prepared:
If you’re in the north of England, it makes sense to hop over the border into Scotland. Edinburgh is about two and half hours by train or a four hour drive from York. For me, taking the train beats driving every single time.
Edinburgh is home of course to Edinburgh Castle. Old Edinburgh town is tricky for visitors in wheelchairs. There is a steep, cobbled hill up to the castle, although pavements are flat and the castle itself has many steps. The website is very thorough with accessibility information and anyone planning a visit would be well placed to check it well in advance to ensure your wheelchair can manage it. To guarantee entry to the castle, you will need to purchase your tickets in advance. As you can imagine, it’s a very popular tourist destination. Edinburgh’s new town is much more accessible, with wide boulevards and pavements.
Let’s head south from Scotland to Canterbury in Kent, home of the Archbishop of Canterbury, the head of the Church of England/Anglican church. Kent in general is stunning, in any season. There’s a reason it’s called The Garden of England. Full of rolling hills, farms and tiny quaint villages.
I think Canterbury is my favourite city in the UK to visit. The cathedral is awesome in the true sense of the word and if you’re lucky, the choir might be rehearsing whilst you’re there. Like almost everywhere in the UK, they offer free companion tickets. I have an Australian card but apart from theatre productions, I’ve never been asked to show it. In fact, the first time I visited the Cathedral I didn’t have a companion with me and I was given a free ticket for my “invisible” companion which the woman at the ticket counter said I could use instead.
I challenge Australian visitors to spot the error on the plaque honouring Dr James George Beaney, a Canterbury surgeon who migrated to Australia. If you do work it out, let me know in the comments section below. We noticed it and mentioned it to one of the guides who was quite surprised and suspicious of our eye for detail and certainty that the information on the plaque was incorrect. He promised to refer it to the Board so I will be very interested to see how they have addressed it next time I visit.
Canterbury itself is lovely with a river running through it and the adjacent park is a riot of colour during the spring and summer months. There are interesting shops galore as well as a theatre, museums and the Beaney Library (named after the aforementioned Dr James Beaney). The architecture in Canterbury is breathtaking in its abundance of original Tudor buildings. I love the juxtaposition of the ancient history of the buildings, housing the usual high street shops and banks. Of course, because Canterbury is a historical city, many of the streets have cobbles, but they are the flat kind, rather than the raised round stones. My wheelchair easily manages them.
One of the great benefits of Canterbury’s location is that the fast train to London St Pancras stops there so it’s a very easy day trip from London.
A must to visit is Rye, which is actually in East Sussex, but unless you lived there or looked at a map in great detail you wouldn’t know. The loveliest part of Rye is Mermaid Street, a very steep cobbled hill, which I’m confident even my wheelchair would struggle with but it’s easy enough to drive down and look at the houses and view across the countryside.
My second favourite area to visit in the UK has to be the Cotswolds. I think it’s on just about everybody’s list. It’s a large area of southern England and spans a number of counties. Lovely quaint villages full of sandstone houses, unique little shops and pubs a plenty. Accessibility is a challenge in some areas but fortunately Cotswold’s Tourism (see link above) has a specific section on accessibility in the region. Fortunately, most pubs are accessible if you like a lovely atmosphere, good beer and a wall of gin options, which is my particular highlight. English pubs are completely different from anywhere in the world and very high on my immediate to do list when I arrive. As a student in south west London during the 1980s, my friends and I used to regularly have a brisk walk through Richmond Park to Richmond Village and have Sunday lunch in one of the river side pubs. Perfection.
I could go on and on about the UK but I’m painfully aware of how long this blog post is and quite how long it’s taken me to write. I might re-visit it for part two (or perhaps I’ll go all in and write a book) once I’ve tackled Europe but for now, let’s leave the UK and in part 4 we’ll head to Amsterdam by way of the Eurostar and Channel Tunnel.
As always, I hope this is helpful. Please share away and if you have any other good ideas for the UK, please pop them in the comments below.
Take Care
Angharad
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